April 20 left Felaisa for the long drive to Weixi. There was traffic delay as we worked our way through the chaos of numerous trucks still waiting for petrol. We dove down the valley from Deqin a few kilometres then began another steep and twisting climb. We joined the Lan Chang River (Mekong River) which we followed for more than 170km. The water was brown and ran swiftly through narrow gorges. Looking across the river we had stunning views of Miacuma Peak (6045m). The sheer beauty of this peak earns its affectionate name of Mother Peak.
We stopped further on to look across the valley to a section of the last day of the Yubong trek we had decided not to do. A track perched on the side of a steep slope that fell down to the river - the track actually the side wall of a water ditch taking water to a village below. (Cynthia's comment about the track was that she wouldn't have needed a horse to complete but would have needed wings.) The route then passed through villages that seemed to be etched into every little valley or piece of hillside that had the slightest piece of arable land.They made a brilliant contrast to the stark mountain slopes with their patchwork of emerald green and the brown of the ploughed fields ready for planting.
As we progressed along the river the colours of the landscape changed to many shades of red, both in the rocks and soil. Further along we saw many people in a small riverside village at the
Yangchao Bridge. This day was a festival and the people were on a prayer-walk which went from Yungling Township down the river to a large chorten, crossing the river at the Yangchao Bridge.
We later crossed the river to go to a village of Cizhong, with a small, simple Gothic style Catholic Church. The French Missionaries came here in the 19th century and still have a presence. They introduced the growing of red wine grapes and the village has many small vineyards and makes a fruity red wine. Had lunch in a very dirty place - owned by the elderly teacher!. After returning across the river we found the road was closed for 45min to clear rubble from a landslide. While waiting in the hot sun we watched a card game in which a considerable amount of money was being won and lost very quickly. Just before the road reopened, some women loaded their donkeys with heavy bags and set off on a track up the hill to their village.
As the afternoon drew on the journey became tiring and the scenery repetitious with little of special interest. Jonathon began to look for a village in which we could stay the night. We stayed in the second one he made inquiries in. There were two accommodation blocks, the newer one being the one the officials stayed in. Our room in this had a bathroom with a pleasant view of the Mekong River from the window. Dinner was followed by a walk down the street before bed. Cynthia entertained the small children (and their parents) by hopping down the street with them. We seemed to be a novelty as we did some shopping, possibly few Western tourists have ever stayed here.
April 21 and after leaving the village we headed towards Weixi but turned off to go to the First Bend in the Yangtse River. We had lunch on the way at another disgustingly dirty restaurant where the meat ( half a pig) was stored on the floor with some leaves over it. The drive was long and uninspiring. On the way we encountered a broken down van in the middle of the road, preventing passage either way. Everyone seemed content to wait till they got it going, but John organised the two occupants and Jonathon to help him push it out of the way. The people in the other cars just watched. The First Bend was disappointing- just a broad almost V shape and of no particular scenic interest. The only factor was its vast size and the way it turned back on itself in the other direction. Then on towards Dali. Not very happy because we couldn't get a proper idea from Jonathon exactly what the plans were for the next few days. Passed a large town on the way where marble was being cut into headstones, fences and some ornaments. The very basic workshops lined the road for several km.
We then turned off the main road to visit the Ancient Town of Shaxi - an old town on the tea horse trail dating back some 600 years. We had an hour or more delay again on this route as the road was closed for works. Arrived in town and had some trouble in locating accommodation. Found a room in the centre of the old town at 320 yuan - more than three times what we had been paying.We paid the extra 200 over budget to have the room - the only one with a private bathroom. It was a pleasant room but small. After dinner had a walk around town with a guide but as it was dusk it was no good for photos. Went through the East gate dating back 6oo years. Then to a pretty 400 y.o. arched stone bridge and then back through the reconstructed South Gate. Shaxi town square is on the World Monument list of 2001. Its restoration and preservation is funded by the World Monument Fund. A Swiss archeologist was instrumental in its listing and in planning its protection and restoration.
There was traditional Bai dancing on the platform stage of the Theatre that evening. It is one of the few remaining theatres of its kind in rural China. We got up early next morning to see the village properly - Sideng street and the square in the village is the only surviving fair market of
the ancient tea horse merchants' trail and it has a complete open stage and theatre, temple and village gate. The old shops still have platforms outside on which the tea sacks were placed for loading on to the horses. There is one fairly original Bai folk courtyard house which belongs still to the merchant Ouyang's family. The house is the three house, one courtyard and one enclosing wall system. The temple was closed for restoration but a gentleman took us in through a back entry. The courtyards contained beautiful old trees. The artworks and temple furniture was in storage whilst the buildings were strengthened and restored - little structural work needs doing but there have been many years of neglect in maintenance.
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