Blog 4 -Another few days

Jiuzhaigou, Northern Sichuan
April 8 up and out of our very 2 star hotel in Chengdu and onto hotel bus to airport to catch plane to Jiuhuanglong Airport. When we went to check couldn't see our flight. A 'quick' porter came up and told us we were at wrong terminal. Too late for us to reorganise ourselves so we accepted his services at 100 yuan each for a quick guided sprint across to other terminal - would have helped if we had been told that our flight left from a different terminal. Goodbye to our 200 yuan Air China delay refund.

Spectacular flight over very high scow-capped mountain peaks - absolutely sensational - at times you felt that you could almost reach out and touch them. We flew into an airport at 3500m altitude that was etched out between the mountain peaks. Met by car from hotel and had another scenic drive to the Sheraton Resort 5 star, our abode for the next two nights. We checked in and did a much needed wash before setting out for Jiuzhaigou Scenic Park - a national and world treasure. It is a UN World Biosphere Park and home to the panda among other species. Entrance fee was pretty steep at 520 yuan for two ($AU85 approx), this included an on/off bus service through the park. (We have now received our first seniors discount!) The park is a Y shape with two valleys heading SE and SW after a 14km entry - these are separated by huge mountains. The valleys were formed by glacial flows leaving underground rivers. The water is rich in calcium and other minerals and has built natural barriers along with plant materials and the minerals which have created multiple lakes and waterfalls.

Bus took us in a southerly direction between towering peaks with even higher snowcapped ones behind. Then we headed down the south westerly route first which took us to the Primeval Forest at 2800+m to see an area of old conifers which had not been logged. Down road by bus to Swan Lake as we could not walk - the track was closed. On the bus again and off at Arrow Bamboo Lake. Walked from here. The water was in beautiful shades of azure, peacock-green and blue. Water from Arrow Bamboo Lake fell over broad falls to move on to the next lake. This barrier was calcified plant matter massed over time from minerals in the water. 

The water raced on to Panda Lake in shades of azure. We were able to see a number of carp-like fish near the shore. There were trees in the water turned to natural cement by the minerals in the water. This is a typical barrier lake formed by collapsing substance jams. The karst underground river runs under the lake. There are two karst funnels and this lake has the largest changes of water level in the park. It is also one of two lakes here that freezes.

We continued down towards Colourful and Fiveflowers Lakes passing remnant frozen snow drifts. Colourful Lake was a multi-hued azure colour. Onto Fiveflowers Lake which didn't have much water but some was almost yellow-green in parts along with the azure hues. Continued on down past Peacock River where an official was keen for us to rejoin the bus as the path was 'hard'. But we continued on and came to a real gem - the Pearl Shoals - a magnificent falls 163m wide and 21m high which over the millenia the mineralised waters have created massive travertine overhangs over which the water spills. At the base of the falls was a large oval gathering ground hung over with hundreds of Tibetan prayer flags. A walk back up to the road to catch the bus back to the entrance and then back to the hotel. 

That evening a taxi up to the village - couldn't get a table at the recommended Tibetan restaurant so made our own choice - a good one. We had great mushroom dishes, one a stir fry and the other a hotpot. Chose four dishes because they couldn't understand us changing our mind and cancelling. Two too many!
Next day April 9 back to Jiuzhaigou Scenic Park and a repeat of the entrance fee. Took the bus up the southeasterly route to Long Lake at 3100m altitude. Many Tibetans here in costume - you could hire costumes and be photographed with them.

Long Lake still had ice on the far side under the mountains - looked spectacular with blue water, then ice, then forested mountains and up to snow capped peaks over 4600m. Walked from here to down past Multicoloured Lake which had yellow-greens as well as azure. Saw a sink hole in the northern end of the lake which connects to the underground river. Back to bus as the three seasonal lakes were dry and not worth walking to see. Off at Y junction of eastern and western routes and began to walk down towards entrance. Passed Nuorlong Falls and on to the very large Rhinoceros Lake. The water moved over many cascades with fast running channels running along the sides as well. On to Tiger Lake where we saw a log lying in the water near the bank which looked like some prehistoric crocodile creature. This lake has a constant water level. Saw lots of birds and butterflies along the route. Some straggly  daphne bushes just beginning to flower - a soft mauve colour. Then to Shuzhang Falls - this was more like a huge cascade on the side we were on - both in width and length. It fed into a series of lakes.

We crossed back to the eastern shore here at Shuzheng Village - an old Tibetan village. The Tibetan people can only work in the restaurants and tourists shops, they are no longer allowed to live in their villages in the park. At the water's edge was an abandonned water mill and grindstones - a slatted water wheel lay horizontal under the millhouse and the water poured onto it through a shute, turning it and so turning the grindstones above in the mill. There was a water powered prayer wheel still in use. Prayer wheels here are designed to run anti-clockwise.
Thought this was the the end of the walk. I (Cynthia) was tired and my back ached. We'll just go down here to Sparkling Lake said John. 1500M said the sign!. Passed Wulong Lake and Shuanglong Lakes, Sleeping Dragon Lake and came to Sparkling Lake. Lovely peach blossom along the way. Back to bus and to entrance. Taxi to hotel for rest. 

Walked up to village for dinner and chose another Tibetan restaurant. Had a great tofu dish and greens. Staff were quite fascinated by us - we went into kitchen to select what we wanted cooked as they had no English. They laughed when I produced my Chinese note saying 'not too much chilli". The staff were impressed with us using chopsticks and called kitchen staff out to watch. We were able to photograph the kitchen, food choices and chef at work.

Back to hotel for a well earned rest before our flight to the next adventure.