April 11 Flight from Jiuzhaigou via Chengdu brought us late into Lijiang. Met by Jonathon, our guide , and the driver for a 40 minute drive into Dongba Guesthouse in Lijiang Ancient Town. We had a long walk through many lanes and over lots of canals, the Ancient Town is car free. Along the drive the road was lit by solar powered street lights - China is doing very well with solar power.
Next morning an early walk around Ancient Town before the tourist crowds arrive. A highlight was going to the food market in the old market area - a huge market with just about every known fruit and vegetable for sale. Abundantly stocked stalls - very fresh and crisp - lots of variety in dried mushrooms, seeds, spices, fresh and dried chillies. Again open tables for meat, mainly pork - many stalls. One man was boning a small ox. Another section had multiple fish stalls - from tiny dried fish to large fish in tanks. Most fish were alive in tanks. Traders were scaling fish in the centre of the walkway for their customers. Saw an old mechanical pounder pulverising dried chillies into powder.
Lovely fresh fruit pancakes for breakfast from a street stall then back to the guesthouse. Cynthia had a read and a rest whilst John and Jonathon went for a 4 hour bike ride. The ride took them to Baisha (the oldest town) and Shuhe. They rode out from Ancient Town via Black Dragon Pool and along a flat plain to Baisha (which means 'soft sand'). Then walked through the streets with a number of western tourists. Visited Dr Ho (a famous Chinese physician both in China and the West). John chatted with him over tea and was shown many affirmations of his work from all over the World. He felt both of John's wrist pulses to see if he had any cancer.
After lunch in the village they rode on to Shuhe - this town was larger and more tourist oriented. There were many flagstone lanes and the square had a large cafe precinct - coffee shops everywhere playing Western music, including one with a live singer/guitarist. They rode back to Lijiang through the heart of the new city. We all enjoyed a relaxing time in the courtyard of the guesthouse with the landlady - had a special tea from tiny cups which was very nice.
We then walked up the Dragon Pool gardens, along the canal to the main pool - very picturesque with Jade Snow Mountain in the background. Had a disappointing meal - in the tourist strip again!
April 12
Early breakfast and set off at 7:30 for the long drive to Luga Lake. The road went over numerous mountain passes with tight twisting bends on a long section. Incredible climb and descent! Quite rough most of the way - road is paved roughly with squared cobbles. Remnants of many landslides. On one section the driver kept looking up the steep bank - looking for goats as they set of land and rock slides. Saw Yi minority women with amazing high black headdresses - like a medievil nun's headdress.
Lunch on the way just outside Ningiang at a small roadside restaurant. Continued on more climbs and descents with many switchback corners over 3000+ metre passes. Finally descended towards Luga Lake at 2690m - a lake caused by a rift between two mountain ranges. 50.3 square kilometres and up to 93m deep, averaging 45m depth. Legend says it was once a small pool with a fish in it - a greedy man pulled out the fish and the water continues to flow
forming this large lake - the man is long dead but the lake is still here. The popularity of the area has seen this once quiet, idyllic spot being overdeveloped with many guesthouses and more being built.
This is a strong Mosu minority area (a branch of the Naxi). The Mosu are a matriarchial society where surname, inheritance, political, social and economical decisions are made by the women. In the past they practised "walking marriage", where the men visited the women and the women could have more than one partner. This is still practised by some, but many now
marry, the husband going to live in the wife's family home. The eldest woman in the household, usually the grandmother, makes all the descisions even to whom the daughters may marry. The girls now get to meet the man beforehand but previously they didn't see them till they were wedded. Stayed in the village of Lige which already has a row of new guesthouses. A lovely hostess.
More on Luga Lake to follow.
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