Blog 9 -And then some more

April 22.We left early from Shanxi to try and get out before the roadworks begin again for the day. Were lucky and only had a 5 -10 minutes delay. On to Shibao Mountain to walk down to the temple suspended on the side of the mountain slope and see the Shizhong Mountain Grotto Cluster - a series of 800 y.o. carvings of Buddha, Bodhisattva, the Heaven God and other deities and Kings of the Bai culture. The carvings of the 8 grottoes had great detail and retained some of their original bright paint colours. Many were damaged during the Cultural Revolution with the heads being smashed off. The rock on this part of the mountain is deep red sandstone, weathered by rain to give the boulders and exposed rock faces a deeply grooved texture like a turtle's shell.

Our walk then continued down to the bottom of the gully and up the other side to see one of the three grottoes of Shizi Pass. This was a very demanding set of steps to a viewing platform that gave a panoramic view back across the gully to the temple grottoes. John and Jonathon then walked down to the two other carved grottoes on textures outcrops but they were closed off. We then  stopped at the entrance to the park where we saw Yunnan Golden monkeys. John and Jonathon walked up a steep path to a group of temple pavillions with a massive sandstone wall with a large Buddha and other deity figures. We then drove on to Jianchuan County for the night.

April 23  Today we visitied Qianshishan - Manxianlin - a lovely wooded forest scattered with spectacular displays of carved stone lions - over 2900 of them. Of course the only way to see them was up, up and UP! These amazing sculptures are in all sorts of leonine poses from upright to reclining, playful and serious. Some are 3D statues and some are 3D carved rock faces. The only way to see them was to climb the many stone stairs that wind their way up and up the mountain sides, these were interspersed with a few paved gentler slopes.

About two thirds of the way up is a set of pavillions with temples and many Buddha figures. At this spot there was a 1000 y.o., 70m tall cypress tree which still survives in its healthy state despite the fact that during the Cultural Revolution some illegal loggers tried to cut it down. When they were more than halfway through its massive trunk, they fled in fear as each cut brought forth from the tree sparks of fire and load noises - the loggers feared the spirits of the tree and fled in terror. There is a long climb from here to the huge Lion King - the last section on very rough, original stone steps. This huge lion, in fierce pose, is carved out of the rock and stands about 20m high. This day was a long and hard trek for Cynthia - took some 3 hours up with photo stops and Cynthia's rest breaks and just one hour down.

From here we drove to Dali through kilometre after kilometre of garlic fields being harvested and bagged by hand. All the villagers help each other in the harvesting of each other's fields. The sacks are sold to 'middle-men' who take it away by truck to the factories and big markets. We arrived to find Dali a hive of activity with thousands of local people and those from surrounding villages participating in the Spring Festival Market.

April 24. We walked through the market which had thousands of Chinese and as many from local minority groups buying and selling a huge variety of goods at the hundreds of stands. There were many, many stands selling a huge variety of foods including strange dried plant varieties and an extensive range of fish from Erhai Hu (Lake) including live eels and water bugs that looked like locusts, seaweed type plants, huge mussels and different kinds of water snails.

Dali is famous for its marble and we visited a huge showroom with a wide range of pieces from small to extremely large - some vases in excess of 2m high. There were carved pieces of every imaginable Chinese design and framed naturalistic looking scenes of mountains and trees. 

We then viewed the famous Qianxun pagodas of Dali. The main one was 70m high and its sister ones 42m. They date back to the mid 9th century. 

After lunch John and Jonathon went for a 3 hour ferry ride on the lake. Erhai Lake's name means 'ear shape' and it is 42km from north to south. They first went to Jinsuo Island which had a small village with a market which sold catches of the lake including a variety of live fish and a small lobster about 100mm long.
They also visited a cave with stalactites highlighted with coloured lights. Then they went to Tianging and Guanyin Pavillions set high up in picturesque gardens, on a rocky outcrop with stunning views over the lake. While on the cruise John met William who worked for the BBC. We all went out together to Jack Jack's in the old city and had a nice meal.

April 25 and we left Dali and headed back to Lijiang. Stopped at the Ancient Town of Xizhou and had their traditional sweet cake for breakfast. We then visited a traditional three house - one wall Bai house. This had been the home of merchant Yan whose descendants now live in Canada and have given the house complex to the Xiazhou Historical Cultural Precinct. It was built in 1939. There was a central courtyard with the wall on the eastern side, the family house on the southern side and the guest wings on the north and south sides. The buildings were symmetrical, two storeyed with living quarters on the ground floor and storage rooms on the second floor. We watched a traditional Bai dancing performance at which we were given tea at three breaks - each was different, the first somewhat bitter, the second flavoured with honey and the third flavoured with cinnamon.

After a tour of the house we had a tea tasting, with much ceremony, in an upper storeroom. We had Snow tea, Flower tea, Moon tea and Black tea. The tea making was a special procedure where the tea leaves were first covered with boiling water in a lidded bowl to open them. This was quickly poured off before a second lot of boiling water was poured on and allowed to infuse.
It was the strained and poured into tiny cups for tasting. Each had a distinctive taste, from sweet and light through to a strong but delicate black tea. Bought some of each to try at home. Then back to Lijiang for the night to pack and get ready for the 'tourist' run in Xi'an and Beijing.

April 26 was a travel day. Flight from Lijiang via Kunming to Xi'an where we were picked up and taken to Bell Tower Hotel in the old walled city.

Blog 8 -More days

April 20 left Felaisa for the long drive to Weixi. There was traffic delay as we worked our way through the chaos of numerous trucks still waiting for petrol. We dove down the valley from Deqin a few kilometres then began another steep and twisting climb. We joined the Lan Chang River (Mekong River) which we followed for more than 170km. The water was brown and ran swiftly through narrow gorges. Looking across the river we had stunning views of Miacuma Peak (6045m). The sheer beauty of this peak earns its affectionate name of Mother Peak.

We stopped further on to look across the valley to a section of the last day of the Yubong trek we had decided not to do. A track perched on the side of a steep slope that fell down to the river - the track actually the side wall of a water ditch taking water to a village below. (Cynthia's comment about the track was that she wouldn't have needed a horse to complete but would have needed wings.) The route then passed through villages that seemed to be etched into every little valley or piece of hillside that had the slightest piece of arable land.They made a brilliant contrast to the stark mountain slopes with their patchwork of emerald green and the brown of the ploughed fields ready for planting.

As we progressed along the river the colours of the landscape changed to many shades of red, both in the rocks and soil. Further along we saw many people in a small riverside village at the
Yangchao Bridge. This day was a festival and the people were on a prayer-walk which went from Yungling Township down the river to a large chorten, crossing the river at the Yangchao Bridge.
We later crossed the river to go to a village of Cizhong, with a small, simple Gothic style Catholic Church. The French Missionaries came here in the 19th century and still have a presence. They introduced the growing of red wine grapes and the village has many small vineyards and makes a fruity red wine. Had lunch in a very dirty place - owned by the elderly teacher!. After returning across the river we found the road was closed for 45min to clear rubble from a landslide. While waiting in the hot sun we watched a card game in which a considerable amount of money was being won and lost very quickly. Just before the road reopened, some women loaded their donkeys with heavy bags and set off on a track up the hill to their village.

As the afternoon drew on the journey became tiring and the scenery repetitious with little of special interest. Jonathon began to look for a village in which we could stay the night. We stayed in the second one he made inquiries in. There were two accommodation blocks, the newer one being the one the officials stayed in. Our room in this had a bathroom with a pleasant view of the Mekong River from the window. Dinner was followed by a walk down the street before bed. Cynthia entertained the small children (and their parents) by hopping down the street with them. We seemed to be a novelty as we did some shopping, possibly few Western tourists have ever stayed here.

April 21 and after leaving the village we headed towards Weixi but turned off to go to the First Bend in the Yangtse River. We had lunch on the way at another disgustingly dirty restaurant where the meat ( half a pig) was stored on the floor with some leaves over it. The drive was long and uninspiring. On the way we encountered a broken down van in the middle of the road, preventing passage either way. Everyone seemed content to wait till they got it going, but John organised the two occupants and Jonathon to help him push it out of the way. The people in the other cars just watched. The First Bend was disappointing- just a broad almost V shape and of no particular scenic interest. The only factor was its vast size and the way it turned back on itself in the other direction. Then on towards Dali. Not very happy because we couldn't get a proper idea from Jonathon exactly what the plans were for the next few days. Passed a large town on the way where marble was being cut into headstones, fences and some ornaments. The very basic workshops lined the road for several km.

We then turned off the main road to visit the Ancient Town of Shaxi - an old town on the tea horse trail dating back some 600 years. We had an hour or more delay again on this route as the road was closed for works. Arrived in town and had some trouble in locating accommodation. Found a room in the centre of the old town at 320 yuan - more than three times what we had been paying.We paid the extra 200 over budget to have the room - the only one with a private bathroom. It was a pleasant room but small. After dinner had a walk around town with a guide but as it was dusk it was no good for photos. Went through the East gate dating back 6oo years. Then to a pretty 400 y.o. arched stone bridge and then back through the reconstructed South Gate. Shaxi town square is on the World Monument list of 2001. Its restoration and preservation is funded by the World Monument Fund. A Swiss archeologist was instrumental in its listing and in planning its protection and restoration.

There was traditional Bai dancing on the platform stage of the Theatre that evening. It is one of the few remaining theatres of its kind in rural China. We got up early next morning to see the village properly - Sideng street and the square in the village is the only surviving fair market of
the ancient tea horse merchants' trail and it has a complete open stage and theatre, temple and village gate. The old shops still have platforms outside on which the tea sacks were placed for loading on to the horses. There is one fairly original Bai folk courtyard house which belongs still to the merchant Ouyang's family. The house is the three house, one courtyard and one enclosing wall system. The temple was closed for restoration but a gentleman took us in through a back entry. The courtyards contained beautiful old trees. The artworks and temple furniture was in storage whilst the buildings were strengthened and restored - little structural work needs doing but there have been many years of neglect in maintenance.

Blog 7 - But wait there's more

April 15 - the beginning of the big walk!

After some more time at Black Dragon Pool, we went on to Shuhe Ancient Town as Cynthia hadn't been here. Crossed the 400 year old bridge and walked through the streets and square. It is overdeveloped for tourists with shops and stalls. Briefly visited the Tea Horse museum as the Tiger Leaping Gorge Trail is part of the old tea horse trail from China to Tibet and on to Asia Minor and Europe.

Drove to Qiaotao to start the walk. Set off at 3:30pm for the walk to Naxi Guesthouse estimated at 2 hours away. Made it in 2hours 15 minutes. Some of the climb was tough and it was very hot, about 26 degrees - a dry heat. Our room had the biggest bathroom imaginable - up till late last year these 3 ensuite rooms had been the barns in which they kept the livestock. Met a guy from Sandy Bay. Also a friendly couple from the Dandenongs in Victoria.

April 16 we set off at 7:30am after a pancake breakfast to face the challenging climb of the 28 bends to a height of 2640m. We walked up for 45 minutes on a faily steep track to the beginning of the 28 bends climb. Cynthia had opted for a horse to ride up ths section. (Thank God!) John kept on ahead and summitted about 15 minutes in front of the horse party. Some sections were very difficult for horse and rider, with steep drops over the edge. The rest of the walk to the Tea Horse Guesthouse was much more pleasant, mostly downhill. The walk offered spectacular views of the 13 peaks of the Jade Snow Mountains, the highest at 5660m. The narrow rocky track was daunting at times with vertical drops to the Yangtse River over 200 metres below. Arrived at the guest house at 10:40am - a good time for the section. Spent the rest of the day lazing on the balcony in awe of the peaks which seemed only an arm's length away. The brilliant sunshine accentuated their ruggedness and sharpness against a clear blue sky dappled with powderpuff clouds.

April 17  started at 7:10am to beat the heat and complete the Tiger Leaping Gorge walk as far as Tina's Guesthouse. Jonathon said it would be an easy downhill walk. There were still plenty of ups and downs including one big up of 200 metres over a kilometre or so. Passed a beautiful waterfall that fell from high up, down over the track and continued down to the Yangtse hundreds of metres below. At times the walk was a steep descent over the rough, rocky, twisting track. Arrived at Tina's at 11:05. After a short break, John and Jonathon descended an almost sheer track to the Tiger Leaping Stone. On the way back up they selected the route up the 'scare' ladder - a vertical ascent up a home-built ladder in two stages, made out of 'reo' and attached to the rock face. John's concern was not so much the vertical ascent but the 'Chinese engineering'. Meanwhile Cynthia had hired a room for a rest after yet another tiring walk.

After lunch we drove on to Shangrila (Zhongdian) - a route that was a mix of climbing, twisting passes interspersed with flat plains dotted with Tibetan villages and many yaks. On arrival in Shangrila we walked through the cobbled streets of the old city to our Tibetan hotel. It was
traditional in style and the bed was more of a platform with Tibetan carpet and cushions. On this was placed a sleeping pad and quilts for the night. The wooden furniture was ornately carved. After a pleasant meal at Rose's Restaurant we went to the square and joined in the traditional Tibetan circle dancing with the locals and other tourists.

Breakfast in the hotel, the dining area was heated by a charcoal burner in the middle of the table. The decor included weapons from guns to bow and arrows to daggers - all traditional Tibetan. the entrances were hung with heavy drapes to prevent draughts. Then off to Shika Snow Mountain in Blue Moon Valley. This mountain is 4700m high. We boarded the two stage cable car under blue skies but with threatening clouds beginning to encompass the summit. At the end of the first stage there was a plateau between the peaks into which nestled a Tibetan village, with yaks scattered over the grasses. As we went up the second cable stage to 4500+m, snow flakes began to fall. As the cable car went up we were surrounded by spectacular views of snow covered valleys and peaks. Some of the trees were draped with long strands of lichen. As we ascended the snow became heavier and the wind increased with the cable car swinging in the gusts. By the time we reached the station it was snowing heavily with strong winds. John and Jonathon set off to do a circuit walk to Mirror Lake but as they climbed to the viewing platform it became a blizzard with horizontal snow lashing like bullets into their faces. Their attempt to the summit was thwarted by the track being closed. After spending half an hour enduring the blizzard they returned to the station because of the dangerous conditions. Cynthia had a look outside and lasted 2 minutes. 

The first part of the cable car ride down was hazardous, being lashed by gale force winds. Once in the lee of the ridge the trip became a pleasant ride in a winter wonderland over the top of tall pine trees and tree rhododendrons. It was almost an anticlimax coming into the mid-stage station. Continued down the other stage to be picked up by the driver and off to lunch in a restaurant frequented by track drivers. Tibetan bread and pancake and yak meat among our chosen dishes.

Then on to Ganden Sumtselling Monastery - a 300 year old Tibetan monastery with 600 monks. The most important in south west China. Renovation is ongoing since 1986. It was badly damaged by the Red Guards in 1960. As with all monasteries there were many, many steps leading to the main buildings. There were many large rooms, one of which contained over 100 prayer wheels. As you passed through you could hear monks chanting in prayer in side rooms.
In a large temple there were many Buddhas. The main temple had a huge 19m high Buddha, it was heavily gilded. The temples were decorated with paintings of grotesque creatures. The vultures (heaven's birds) soared around the top of the buildings. The Buddhists and Tibetans allow the vultures to clean the deceased body of flesh and thus allow the soul to fly to Heaven. The bones are then cremated.

April 19 and after breakfast we left for the drive to Feilaisa. Had news that a bus had crashed down a 300m ravine the day before with 20 injured people flung out and scattered down the slopes. We climbed up out of Shangrila and stopped to look back over the Napu Lake, partly filled at the moment but it covers the plains after the summer rains. The road wound up through scenic pine forest dotted with patches of deciduous tree just showing colour. Passed a 'blue' truck on its side where it had overturned and crashed into a rock face spilling part of its
load. Continued to climb and saw picturesque villages below and on the high slopes above.

Stopped at a lookout at the top of te first of many passes. This was manned by an old mute man dressed in army uniform who collected one yuan for the use of the public toilet. He seemed to have a sense of humour and enjoyed a joke with the driver and Jonathon. The terrain was rugged and arid, with steep barren slopes many purely rock. We descended into a valley through which the Yangtse River rushed. We crossed the river. This is the province border of Sichuan and Yunnan.

After crossing the bridge we were stopped at an army checkpoint as we were going into an area where pro-Tibetan terrorists had supposedly been operating. John's passport was checked here. Continued on to Benzalin for a lunch stop. Our next stop was to see the "Omega" of the Yangtse, one of its important bends. We then began a long and amazing climb up the pass on Baimang Snow Mountain. This took in excess of one hour of twists and turns, sometimes on rough gravel roads which eventually became a cobbled surface. We stopped at a viewing place at over 4200m. John and Jonathon headed out to climb a snow covered peak adjacent to the road. The view from the top at 4700m was a 360 degree panorama of snow covered peaks up to 5600m. The pair of them returned after an hour and a half in high spirits, but with wet and cold feet from trudging through snow. We stopped a few kilometres later at the highest point of the pass at 4317m.

From here the road continued in a similar vein as it descended into Deqin. We stopped at Tibetan chortens (stupas) on the top of one ascent where we observed the truck drivers buying branches of juniper to burn on the prayer=fire for peace and a safe journey. They also bought prayer flags to add to the many hundreds fluttering in the breeze. They burned insence as
well. During the final descent into Deqin we saw an injured victim from yesterday's bus crash being attended on the roadside by local women. We suspect he may have been overlooked and had made his own way up the steep bank to the road.

Deqin is nestled right into the head of a valley. It is a service centre with very few old, traditional style buildings and lacked character. Continued round the side of the mountain to Feilaisa. The road was partly blocked by a long line of trucks queueing for petrol. Booked into our hotel room with a view over cloud covered Meili Snow Mountains with glimpses of Kawa Karpo (6740m) and the more beautiful Miacimu (6045m) to the south. This peak is affectionately known as Mother Peak.

Kawa Karpo has never been climbed. In 1996 seventeen Japanese climbers perished during an attempt to reach the summit. There is a memorial to them in the village. The Tibetan people have closed access and will not allow climbers on it now. This is one of their holy mountains. Dawn brought magnificent views of the range from our hotel bedroom window. As the sun rose the mountain was blessed by an early morning glow. Whisps of cloud in front of and behind the peaks caught the rays of the rising sun.

After breakfast walked down to the chortens where many villagers had been for prayers and insence burning. A monk was praying with his beads with the beautiful snow covered peaks towering behind him.

Now for some photos

Hongcun old city
Students come to Hongcun to paint.

Abandoned village on route on our 7 hour walk in the mountains in Yangshuo.
Early morning mist Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces
Our guide Michael's family at the ancestors' celebration

Blog 6 - and then some

April 12 and our time in Luga Lake continues. Went for a canoe ride ( the canoes here are called 'pig troughs' and they certainly look like them). They are traditional dugout canoes. Ours was rowed by two strong women. We set out for an island with a temple on it. It was a bit disconcerting for Cynthia when after 20 minutes from the shore she was handed a small basin to bail the water out from the bottom. The wind was too strong so we rowed around Lige Peninsula to the next bay and over to a smaller island where John and Jonathon hopped off for a little explore. The row back was difficult in the wind with John and Jonathon being given paddles to help with the task. Jonathon took on the role of rower and subsequently broke the oar. In the process he fed his mobile phone to the fish.

Back late for our meal of traditional pickled chicken (with black skin) and a pork dish. Then off to see the Mosu dancing. Not as colourful as the Dong and Miao but nice music and rhythm - a bit like line dancing.

April 13 and up early to leave at 6:20am to drive and see the sun rise over the lake. Lovely and clear with very beautiful light on the lake. Yummy steamed buns with chives for breakfast.
Then we began our walk to the Mosu village of Dazui for lunch in a local, traditional family home. We walked around the shore of our village then contoured up and over a steep path that took us through a saddle and down a slippery gravel path into the next lakeside village of Tao Lushen. Walked along the shore and climbed up a rough path but had to leave this and join the road for a while. Then down another steep, slippery path and along the shore in front of another village before climbing again onto the road which we followed until we reached Dazui for lunch.
All in this village live traditionally and there are no guesthouses as yet. Jonathon negotiated for lunch in a family home where we were taken into the women's part of the house. The room was internal with a high step over to get in. There were no windows but a kind of open lantern in the ceiling in the middle of the room. This was to let out the smoke from the fire. There was a raised open fireplace with a large iron stand for pots and kettle. This fireplace had an altar behind it and was considered sacred space and it was extremely bad manners to put your feet on it. On three sides of the room were sleeping platforms with thin mattresses. We sat on these. The quilts were folded and piled in a corner. Part of the floor was cement and the part where we sat was a raised wooden floor. There was a TV and a very modern looking phone in the corner and a small table with a very new looking electric wok plugged into a dangling power board. At the end of the outer corridor was another food preparation area with two large built-in wood fired woks and a cutting bench. Off this small room was an even smaller storeroom in which were the carcasses of two ash covered pigs, heads and all, which had been trussed up so well they looked like black sacks. These had been smoked to preserve them. Traditionally the girls and boys stand on one of these preserved pigs at age 13 and they are then considered adults. The girls can then begin to take lovers.

In the main women's room pieces of cut smoked pork hung from the rafters and it was from these that the piece for our lunch was chosen. The pork was 95 percent fat so not very nice - had just one piece to try. You are considered a very honoured guest if you are offered this pork fat. We were also served a green and root vegetable dish, some fried dried fish and a soup of vegetables and eggs. Rice wine was taken and we first toasted the visitors and then the matriarch. There was a small door in the back wall of the room through which the man enters during the night for visiting his wife. The mother and the two adult daughters slept in the room as well as the children. We saw the beautiful 15 month old granddaughter.

After lunch we drove on to Zuosuo Town and walked to the Grass Sea at the eastern end off the lake. This was a marshy area frequented by fisherman and in autumn the treat is the frogs they catch here. We saw the "walking marriage" bridge, more than 300m long. This was the thoroughfare through which Mosu people walked to their lover's houses and this Zouhun Bridge is also known as 'the first magpie bridge under heaven'. Drove around the edge of the lake to Luowo(Bowa). John and Jonathon set off along a well formed track that followed the lake in beautiful forested country which featured a number of contorted pine trees, passing through two idyllic vllages. The track passed through the saddle of Mount Haulong then dropped down to a small pristine village in another bay. They crossed the access road and ascended a steep newly-formed stairway to the sacrificial pavilion - the divine altar where they pray to the Goddess Gemu for protection from the weather and abundant output of livestock and crops and a prosperous life for the people. The lake lies below the Gemu Goddess Mountain(3775m). They have two festivals here - Zhuansan on July 25th of the lunar calendar and Zhuanhai, August 15 of the lunar calendar. The Mosu call the lake Xieami (maternal lake). Drove back to guesthouse with Cynthia and driver who were waiting along the road.

April 14 and up to early breakfast and the daunting journey back to Lijiang - 192 in 7 hours with stops for meal and photos. Along the route we saw the remains of one of the 'blue' trucks over a steep near vertical drop. Further along the road we entered a fairly large village in a broad fertile valley. We came to the site of an accident. It appeared that a motorcyclist had been hit by a 'blue' truck. The rider was laid out on a litter and completely wrapped in cloths. There were a group of Yi women in traditional dress keening over the body.

Towards the end of the village we had opportunity to photograph two young adult Yi women in immaculate traditional dress including the large headdress. We had to negotiate 5 yuan each to be able to take photos, which we gladly paid.

After crossing the river we had lunch at a roadside restaurant. Good service as the car was washed while we had lunch. Finally back in Lijiang and off to hear the Naxi Ancient Music Band - also many ancient musicians, two at 80, one at 82, one at 84 and one at 86! Some of the musicians had very old instruments, the oldest being over 200 years old. The music was a variety of instrumental and vocal pieces dating from the 8thC. One of the highlights was the singing by a Naxi woman with a wide vocal range and interesting use of tongue for controlling her vocal range. It was an informative presentation in three languages including English, giving introduction to songs and instruments. A nice end to a long day.

Blog 5 -And then a few more days

April 11 Flight from Jiuzhaigou via Chengdu brought us late into Lijiang. Met by Jonathon, our guide , and the driver for a 40 minute drive into Dongba Guesthouse in Lijiang Ancient Town. We had a long walk through many lanes and over lots of canals, the Ancient Town is car free. Along the drive the road was lit by solar powered street lights - China is doing very well with solar power.

Next morning an early walk around Ancient Town before the tourist crowds arrive. A highlight was going to the food market in the old market area - a huge market with just about every known fruit and vegetable for sale. Abundantly stocked stalls - very fresh and crisp - lots of variety in dried mushrooms, seeds, spices, fresh and dried chillies. Again open tables for meat, mainly pork - many stalls. One man was boning a small ox. Another section had multiple fish stalls - from tiny dried fish to large fish in tanks. Most fish were alive in tanks. Traders were scaling fish in the centre of the walkway for their customers. Saw an old mechanical pounder pulverising dried chillies into powder.

Lovely fresh fruit pancakes for breakfast from a street stall then back to the guesthouse. Cynthia had a read and a rest whilst John and Jonathon went for a 4 hour bike ride. The ride took them to Baisha (the oldest town) and Shuhe. They rode out from Ancient Town via Black Dragon Pool and along a flat plain to Baisha (which means 'soft sand'). Then walked through the streets with a number of western tourists. Visited Dr Ho (a famous Chinese physician both in China and the West). John chatted with him over tea and was shown many affirmations of his work from all over the World. He felt both of John's wrist pulses to see if he had any cancer.

After lunch in the village they rode on to Shuhe - this town was larger and more tourist oriented. There were many flagstone lanes and the square had a large cafe precinct - coffee shops everywhere playing Western music, including one with a live singer/guitarist. They rode back to Lijiang through the heart of the new city. We all enjoyed a relaxing time in the courtyard of the guesthouse with the landlady - had a special tea from tiny cups which was very nice.

We then walked up the Dragon Pool gardens, along the canal to the main pool - very picturesque with Jade Snow Mountain in the background. Had a disappointing meal - in the tourist strip again!

April 12
Early breakfast and set off at 7:30 for the long drive to Luga Lake. The road went over numerous mountain passes with tight twisting bends on a long section. Incredible climb and descent! Quite rough most of the way - road is paved roughly with squared cobbles. Remnants of many landslides. On one section the driver kept looking up the steep bank - looking for goats as they set of land and rock slides. Saw Yi minority women with amazing high black headdresses - like a medievil nun's headdress.

Lunch on the way just outside Ningiang at a small roadside restaurant. Continued on more climbs and descents with many switchback corners over 3000+ metre passes. Finally descended towards Luga Lake at 2690m - a lake caused by a rift between two mountain ranges. 50.3 square kilometres and up to 93m deep, averaging 45m depth. Legend says it was once a small pool with a fish in it - a greedy man pulled out the fish and the water continues to flow
forming this large lake - the man is long dead but the lake is still here. The popularity of the area has seen this once quiet, idyllic spot being overdeveloped with many guesthouses and more being built.

This is a strong Mosu minority area (a branch of the Naxi). The Mosu are a matriarchial society where surname, inheritance, political, social and economical decisions are made by the women. In the past they practised "walking marriage", where the men visited the women and the women could have more than one partner. This is still practised by some, but many now
marry, the husband going to live in the wife's family home. The eldest woman in the household, usually the grandmother, makes all the descisions even to whom the daughters may marry. The girls now get to meet the man beforehand but previously they didn't see them till they were wedded. Stayed in the village of Lige which already has a row of new guesthouses. A lovely hostess.

More on Luga Lake to follow.

Blog 4 -Another few days

Jiuzhaigou, Northern Sichuan
April 8 up and out of our very 2 star hotel in Chengdu and onto hotel bus to airport to catch plane to Jiuhuanglong Airport. When we went to check couldn't see our flight. A 'quick' porter came up and told us we were at wrong terminal. Too late for us to reorganise ourselves so we accepted his services at 100 yuan each for a quick guided sprint across to other terminal - would have helped if we had been told that our flight left from a different terminal. Goodbye to our 200 yuan Air China delay refund.

Spectacular flight over very high scow-capped mountain peaks - absolutely sensational - at times you felt that you could almost reach out and touch them. We flew into an airport at 3500m altitude that was etched out between the mountain peaks. Met by car from hotel and had another scenic drive to the Sheraton Resort 5 star, our abode for the next two nights. We checked in and did a much needed wash before setting out for Jiuzhaigou Scenic Park - a national and world treasure. It is a UN World Biosphere Park and home to the panda among other species. Entrance fee was pretty steep at 520 yuan for two ($AU85 approx), this included an on/off bus service through the park. (We have now received our first seniors discount!) The park is a Y shape with two valleys heading SE and SW after a 14km entry - these are separated by huge mountains. The valleys were formed by glacial flows leaving underground rivers. The water is rich in calcium and other minerals and has built natural barriers along with plant materials and the minerals which have created multiple lakes and waterfalls.

Bus took us in a southerly direction between towering peaks with even higher snowcapped ones behind. Then we headed down the south westerly route first which took us to the Primeval Forest at 2800+m to see an area of old conifers which had not been logged. Down road by bus to Swan Lake as we could not walk - the track was closed. On the bus again and off at Arrow Bamboo Lake. Walked from here. The water was in beautiful shades of azure, peacock-green and blue. Water from Arrow Bamboo Lake fell over broad falls to move on to the next lake. This barrier was calcified plant matter massed over time from minerals in the water. 

The water raced on to Panda Lake in shades of azure. We were able to see a number of carp-like fish near the shore. There were trees in the water turned to natural cement by the minerals in the water. This is a typical barrier lake formed by collapsing substance jams. The karst underground river runs under the lake. There are two karst funnels and this lake has the largest changes of water level in the park. It is also one of two lakes here that freezes.

We continued down towards Colourful and Fiveflowers Lakes passing remnant frozen snow drifts. Colourful Lake was a multi-hued azure colour. Onto Fiveflowers Lake which didn't have much water but some was almost yellow-green in parts along with the azure hues. Continued on down past Peacock River where an official was keen for us to rejoin the bus as the path was 'hard'. But we continued on and came to a real gem - the Pearl Shoals - a magnificent falls 163m wide and 21m high which over the millenia the mineralised waters have created massive travertine overhangs over which the water spills. At the base of the falls was a large oval gathering ground hung over with hundreds of Tibetan prayer flags. A walk back up to the road to catch the bus back to the entrance and then back to the hotel. 

That evening a taxi up to the village - couldn't get a table at the recommended Tibetan restaurant so made our own choice - a good one. We had great mushroom dishes, one a stir fry and the other a hotpot. Chose four dishes because they couldn't understand us changing our mind and cancelling. Two too many!
Next day April 9 back to Jiuzhaigou Scenic Park and a repeat of the entrance fee. Took the bus up the southeasterly route to Long Lake at 3100m altitude. Many Tibetans here in costume - you could hire costumes and be photographed with them.

Long Lake still had ice on the far side under the mountains - looked spectacular with blue water, then ice, then forested mountains and up to snow capped peaks over 4600m. Walked from here to down past Multicoloured Lake which had yellow-greens as well as azure. Saw a sink hole in the northern end of the lake which connects to the underground river. Back to bus as the three seasonal lakes were dry and not worth walking to see. Off at Y junction of eastern and western routes and began to walk down towards entrance. Passed Nuorlong Falls and on to the very large Rhinoceros Lake. The water moved over many cascades with fast running channels running along the sides as well. On to Tiger Lake where we saw a log lying in the water near the bank which looked like some prehistoric crocodile creature. This lake has a constant water level. Saw lots of birds and butterflies along the route. Some straggly  daphne bushes just beginning to flower - a soft mauve colour. Then to Shuzhang Falls - this was more like a huge cascade on the side we were on - both in width and length. It fed into a series of lakes.

We crossed back to the eastern shore here at Shuzheng Village - an old Tibetan village. The Tibetan people can only work in the restaurants and tourists shops, they are no longer allowed to live in their villages in the park. At the water's edge was an abandonned water mill and grindstones - a slatted water wheel lay horizontal under the millhouse and the water poured onto it through a shute, turning it and so turning the grindstones above in the mill. There was a water powered prayer wheel still in use. Prayer wheels here are designed to run anti-clockwise.
Thought this was the the end of the walk. I (Cynthia) was tired and my back ached. We'll just go down here to Sparkling Lake said John. 1500M said the sign!. Passed Wulong Lake and Shuanglong Lakes, Sleeping Dragon Lake and came to Sparkling Lake. Lovely peach blossom along the way. Back to bus and to entrance. Taxi to hotel for rest. 

Walked up to village for dinner and chose another Tibetan restaurant. Had a great tofu dish and greens. Staff were quite fascinated by us - we went into kitchen to select what we wanted cooked as they had no English. They laughed when I produced my Chinese note saying 'not too much chilli". The staff were impressed with us using chopsticks and called kitchen staff out to watch. We were able to photograph the kitchen, food choices and chef at work.

Back to hotel for a well earned rest before our flight to the next adventure.

Blog 2 -The next few days

Blog 2 - from MARCH 29

Flight to Guilin 2 hours after a great drama at security about taking medication on board in hand luggage - had to recheck in. Afternoon visit to Red Flute Cave - one of the chambers could hold 1000 people - various sections lit with coloured lights - paths and infrastructure made access and moving through very easy - many visitors.

An extra cave visited was the Thousand Year Old Turtle Cave - well worth a visit. We fed a 1000y.o. Kylin turtle some banana. Held a 3 month old turtle. Others in pool were 3 and 4 y.o. The giant Mountain Turtles were 1000 and 1300 y.o. After dinner in local restaurant with top quality rice went for a walk before bed. Found a large section of lake gardens - two of four Guilin Lake Gardens. Spectacular lighting particularly the water spout display to music with lighting.

Next morning took 5 hour cruise on Li River to Yangshuo. Huge limestone karsts right down to water's edge spreading numerous peaks in depth away from the river. A procession of tour boats - with an open air kitchen on the back of each on which we saw lunch being prepared. The river had many other craft from small local ferries to bamboo rafts, some equipped with seats and umbrellas and powered by something that was a cross between a small outboard and a whippersnipper.

After we arrived in Yangshuo,  John and our guide, Michael, went for a 2 hour bike ride along the Yulong River. Day 2 was the first of our extended walks. A drive upriver to Yangdi where a ferry took us across the river for a walk through the rice paddies, orange groves and villages. Crossed the river again and walked through more paddies, fields and villages. Had lunch in an open air place on the way - good food but facilities unbelievably basic. Walked to next ferry crossing where they were loading baskets of oranges.

Then our walk took us up into karst mountains to take inland route to Hebao Shan village for car pickup. This was the first time our guide, Michael, had done this route so he took instructions from an old local woman. The climb into the first saddle was arduous but scenery made it worthwhile. The track came out into a box canyon with ruins of an old abandoned village. The path deteriorated into very overgrown eventually disappearing. Michael searched for the track for 30 minutes. After two attempts on possible tracks we backtracked to a junction and took the upper path to the right (John wanted to use this in the beginning as it was more defined but Michael had been told to keep left). This led us through a different saddle and eventually down into a remote farm from which we climbed up to the village. It had been fantastic - remote and no people for hours. Even though it was nearly 7 hours walking, the villages and fantastic scenery made it worth it. Back to Yangshuo to a nice meal at Cloud Nine Restaurant, a massage and bed.

April 1st and a long drive of 5 hours to Dazhai over a mountain range. Lunch was near the top at a home style eatery with great views. Arrived at Dazhai Dragon Back Rice Terraces - more than 600 years old. Walked one and a half hours up a very steep, rough path to our guest house in Tientou.

Guest house in clouds, so obscure views but stunning as clouds and mist drifted across. Everything felt damp, including the beds. There was no heating in the guesthouse but they did have electric blankets. The 'hot' water was solar powered and only tepid. Next day and a 5 hour walk to Ping'an - a more touristy village. Walk was up and down many times, passing through Zhongliu where we paid 10 yuan for 2 ladies to let their hair down and redo - a tradition of these Zhuang women is to only cut their hair twice in their life - at age 18 and at death. These women had very long hair plus their 18y.o. extension piece and two more extensions belonging to their ancestors. It made a very heavy top-knot when rolled up again. Very entertaining! On the walk we saw many families celebrating their ancestors at the gravesites - they decorated the graves with paper money and streamers, burned incense and let off firecrackers.

The walk was well worth the effort with fantastic, expansive vistas - a very basic track underfoot, meandering its way around the terraces. Panic struck for a while as our driver phoned our guide to say the road out to our starting point at Dazhai had been closed for 10 days for bridge repairs! Driver not able to get through and pick us up and he had the majority of our luggage. We walked on with John suggesting various contingency plans. We didn't fancy 10 days in a very basic guesthouse with only our overnight needs with us. Just before we arrived at Ping'an good news from the driver - he had managed to negotiate a passage through. ( We didn't find out how.) On to Longsheng Hot Springs. Very late arrival so only a short time in the water, but what and experience! We selected the Doctor Fish pool. This pool was 38degrees and stocked with fish, 50 -75mm long. After laying in the pool for a few minutes the fish started nibbling away at any exposed part of your body. After initial uneasiness the sensation became pleasant. The fish remove dead skin cells and bacteria to open the pores and allow the minerals to work. We both felt refreshed afterwards. Breakfast and dinner disappointing which is typical of hotels and restaurants trying to cater for Western tastes.

Next morning we left early to have a walk across a picturesque swinging bridge with a pavilion on each end. John walked up paths into the park for further views. Then we went on to our guide Michael's village, Chengyang. Stayed in his hotel which is in the process pf being renovated - wood shaving on the floors, etc. Had to change rooms because no water in bathroom. These small guesthouses/hotels have a wall mounted 65L hot water cylinder in each bathroom, solar heated.

This is a Dong Minority village. There are about 2.5 million Dong people in China. Each village has some unique traditions. The houses of the Dong, Miao, Zhuang and Yao people are all timber and they are constructed of pine logs with mortice and tenon joins. We saw the village men preparing these in the local roadside 'factory'. The outer and inner walls and floors are single skinned pine boards with overlapping edges cut in. They are made with few nails. The roofs are layered tiles with upturned ends.

More about these fascinating people and our time in the area next time.

Blog 1 - First few days

First day spent in Shanghai waiting for evening flight to Huangshan. The architecture at The Bund was very interesting - 'a touch of Palladian among the Art Deco in China'. Late night flight to Huangshan City. Early start for 1 and/2 hour drive to base of mountain. After passing through flat terraced fields blooming with canola, later to be planted with rice, we were on a toll road to rival anything in Europe, with numerous tunnels. This took us quickly into steep lower maountain slopes with every piece of usable land terraced for tea bushes. Higher up was bamboo forest and above 800 m pine forest. Large bamboo being harvested.

Very new modern cable cars carrying six people took us up, over breathtakingly steep terrain, jagged granite peaks rising sharply from the many valleys, with the cable almost scraping these as we rose. Out of the car and our first climb up to Beginning to Believe peak - up, up!! Each
peak has its own name and many have traditional stories or meanings. Then it was on up and down many times to our hotel - didn't count the steps! For the two days we climbed up and down many peaks - the steps and pathways well designed and maintained to cope with 1.8 million visitors a year. The staffing on the mountain is amazing with people constantly sweeping leaves, etc. Very clean, lots of litter bins and staff constantly picking up any litter and cleaning out bins. People really care for this place. After climbing several other peaks another trip took us down and back up on a different cable car that held 100 people. 

Day 2 we were up and out at 5:15am to see sunrise at Refreshing Terrace - more than 3000 steps up from our hotel!! and before breakfast! Absolutely fabulous sunrise behind incredible foreground of multiple peaks. Many people there but we managed a front row position by climbing onto a rocky ledge. The area is just unbelievable and a must for anyone visiting China.

Everything to build and maintain buildings and all infrastructure, as well as all consumables and rubbish is carried up and down by porters. Incredible endurance and strength these men have. One example was porters carrying two 50kg bags of cement up steps for hundreds of metres. Had opportunity to explore many peaks - of course many steps up and down for each one. Our highest was 1820m. John unable to climb highest peak there (Lotus Peak) as the path does not open till April 1st for safety reasons.

After we came down from the mountain we visited two Ancient Villages dating back to 12th century- Hongcun and Xidi. Hongcun built in the shape of a buffalo. They gave a fascinating insight into feudal system. The villages are still occupied with just certain parts open for viewing, these being the original dwellings of officials and merchants. Many students were there from colleges, they come to paint the scenery.

Overnight sleeper to Suzhou which is famous for its gardens. We visited two beautiful tradional walled house and garden complexes featuring many courtyard rooms. The structure of the grounds was built in C12th. Each corridor or path turned and you would find yourself in yet another garden or courtyard. Corridors contained open window frames through which one glimpsed some garden vista . These gardens and houses were home to officials and merchants. The largest one we saw was 2.33 hectares. They each contained mountains (rock) and water (ponds), both important elements in cultural tradition.

A canal ride took us to China's 'Venice" - an old part of the city dating back to C15th - very narrow in some parts - tight squeeze and manoeuvre to pass other boats.

Back to Shanghai on uninspiring drive through continuous industrial development with accompanying new housing for the workers. A night's stay before going on to Guilin to begin our next adventure. Dinner in local Shanghai restuarant was good despite the menu having several dishes with dog meat!

Traffic in China is organised chaos! with bicycles, motorbikes, cars, buses, trucks sharing the roads and weaving around one another. The centre yellow line is a vague suggestion there may be a left hand or right hand side of the road. Pedestrian crossings are very wide and may be just hint that people may want to cross the road. Where there are traffic lights,  pedestrian crossings have a large countdown showing from 30 seconds so you know you need to evade moving traffic as you cross in your short time! Well next time we will fill you in on the last couple of days her in Guilin/Yangshuo area.